Isaac's Storm by Erik Larson

Hurricane Isaac landed in Galveston in September 1900 head on with a force estimated at 200 m.p.h. - winds and a storm surge estimated over 15 feet.
Isaac Monroe Cline was stationed by the U.S. Weather Bureau in Galveston where he and his brother, Joseph, put out daily reports. But the weather bureau had a bad reputation, Isaac and Joseph were the exception. Many of the Bureau's employees in other parts of the country were indifferent, one had pawned the equipment and conducted observations from the pawn shop, one made up reports in advance and gave them to someone to relay to the Weather's Bureau's office daily while he went fishing. One forecast in New York was for brisk winds but resulted in the Blizzard of 1888 with 21 inches of snow - 400 people died.
To add to the problems, the U. S. Weather Bureau office in Cuba was battling with Cuba weathermen who were more accurate in their reports and had subsequently been banned from using telegraph to send their reports - news of an impending hurricane did not reach Galveston Island. This ended in disaster for those living in Galveston who were hit with a storm, without warning, that no one could have imagined. Eventually cut off from the mainland, over 8,000 people died in the Galveston Hurricane.

Having been to Galveston several times, I've seen the destruction of some of the more recent hurricanes, (there are plaques on many buildings showing the height the storm surges have reached) but Erik Larson gives us a view of the 1900 disaster from the point of view of the community and individual families in Isaac's Storm.

A ship was pulled from its moorings and destroyed all three rail causeways, slates from roofs flew through the air killing people and severing limbs, one man noted seeing a baby grand piano in the crest of a wave and in St. Mary's Orphanage 10 nuns tied a clothes line around the smaller children attaching each group to a nun. This proved fatal as it tangled them in submerged wreckage. Over 90 children and 10 nuns died. Only three older boys who were not tethered survived. Many of those escaping the water and taking refuge in trees were killed by venomous snakes.

Few iconic buildings survived but Bishop's Palace and Ashton Villa remain.

Even after raising the whole town of Galveston and adding a sea wall, it is still susceptible to hurricanes.

Moody Mansion - Galveston, Texas

Moody Mansion, a palatial residence on Galveston Island's famous Broadway (often referred to as Millionaire's Row) has been restored to reflect the late 1800s when it was built. W.L. Moody, Jr. purchased the house shortly after the 1900 storm which devastated a good portion of the island. W.L. Moody was influential in the growth of Galveston. Pictures are not allowed inside the house but you can view images here

Raising Galveston Island

I found this interesting video about how Galveston Island was raised after the 1900 storm. Quite an undertaking.



Although the efforts of the citizens in the 1900s did prevent many storm catastrophes, Hurricane Ike hit Galveston with a vengeance in 2008.

Ashton Villa - Galveston, Texas

Ashton Villa, built in the mid-1800s was the first brick house in Texas. Although it survived the 1900 hurricane and a plan to demolish the building was stopped by the Historical Foundation, the last hurricane and flooding did so much damage, that restoration has been put on hold. There are no immediate plans to re-open the house to the public. The ballroom and some of the rooms are used for functions and the gardens can still be viewed (entrance through the Visitors Center). The wrought iron fence around the house was once 3 feet taller, but the bottom half was covered when the island was raised to prevent flooding from storm surges.

Moody Gardens, Galveston, Texas

The name Moody Gardens indicated to me formal gardens much like the Arboretum in Dallas, but instead it's not a garden at all but a theme park with zipline, wave pool, an aquarium and other amusements. Our group decided to take a look at the Rainforest Pyramid which was quite amazing with its lush vegetation and plenty of birds, reptiles and animals to see. The Paddlewheel Boat also leaves from a dock at the edge of the gardens.

Galveston - Flowers, Plant and Trees

Variegated Oleander

Orchid Tree

All around Galveston Island colorful plants and trees can be spotted everywhere. Being a sub-tropical climate, they bloom profusely. Many plants did not survive hurricanes, however, and during the 1900 disaster, the surge of salt water killed many plants and trees, especially the oleanders. Fearing another catastrophe, the islanders raised the height of the island from sea level to up to 17 feet in some areas, causing a slope to drain any sea surges toward the harbor during storms. The seawall was also constructed. This wreaked havoc on the plant life as sand and dirt was dredged from the gulf and harbor to raise the height of the island adding more salt to the soil which took some time to dissipate.
In the Oleander Garden Park there are specimens of many varieties of Oleander that were originally brought to the island on sailing ships from Jamaica. There are now over 100 varieties on the island. (The Oleander Garden Park is behind Moody Mansion.

Star Jasmine

Salvia

Tree Sculptures - Galveston, Texas

Devastation left behind from hurricane Ike resulted in tree stumps scattered around Galveston Island. A few artists have sculptured the stumps into works of art. Many of the tree sculptures are linked to the homes where they are located. The tin man and Toto sit outside the home where King Vidor (director of the Wizard of Oz) was born.
See a list of sculptures and a self guided tour here
The Country Reporter interviewed Jim Phillips, one of the artists (see video below)

Toto and the Tin Man

Dalmation sculpture outside the Galveston Fire Station

Bishop's Palace, Galveston, Texas

At one time, Galveston Island was called the Wall Street of the Southwest and there were more millionaires per capita than any other city in the U.S. The mansions on Broadway are part of their legacy (although many did not survive the 1900 storm).
Bishop's Palace (1402 Broadway) was one that withstood that fateful night and our guide told us that over 200 people were rescued by a human chain from the doors of the mansion to the flooded street.
Built by the architect Nicholas Clayton for Walter Gresham and his wife Josephine, the house was later purchased by the Catholic Church and used as a residence for the Archbishop, Christopher Burn. It had been rented and restored by the Historical Foundation for several years and they were later able to raise enough money to purchase the property.
This mansion has been beautifully restored and furnishings are typical of 1892 when the building was completed. The Galveston Historical Foundation allows pictures to be taken both inside and outside the residence.

Pictures of Bishop's Palace here

Galveston Island, Texas - Tips for Visitors

Although I've visited Galveston Island several times (before a cruise) this is the first time I've spent several days there. It's the closest beach destination for those living in the Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex.

If you arrive before 5:00, stop at the Visitors Center at 2328 Broadway (behind Ashton Villa ). Be sure to pick up the Galveston Visitors' Guide (there are discounts on the page that folds out from the map). This is also where you can take an Historic Tour in a 12-seater electric shuttle bus ($1 discount in the Visitors' Guide) Tours are currently 11:00 a.m., 1:00 p.m. and 3:00 p.m. We had a wonderful guide, Joseph, who was very knowledgeable and he gave us tips on places to eat. The tour takes you through the Historic District, The Strand and past many of the tree sculptures.

Two of the historic homes we visited are Bishop's Palace (10% discount in the Visitor's Guide for the gift shop) and Moody Mansion. Both were interesting and lots of history to soak up. Note: a Bishop's Palace brochure has a $1 off admission for up to 6 people.

Of course shopping at The Strand is a must.

Dining:
Our first meal was at Fishermans Wharf with a view of the harbor and the ship Elissa moored behind the restaurant. We rated the restaurant top of our list for ambiance with mixed views of the meal, but I think we all agreed it was a good choice to eat there.
We did try to eat at Nonno Tony's which wasn't a good experience. They were reluctant to seat us without a reservation. The hostess did show us to an area with a coffee table which we didn't think was a great idea to eat a meal. We chose to leave and the gentleman at the door asked why we were leaving and pointed to several empty tables outside the front of the restaurant. After we were seated one of our party commented that the restrooms weren't clean. We didn't have a comfortable feeling about the place and finally decided to leave and eat elsewhere. I will say the manager was very pleasant and was apologetic that his staff weren't more welcoming.

Mosquito Cafe

Mario's Ristorante was a much better choice where we ate pizza and salads. The only disappointment here was that they wouldn't honor the free gelato (with a meal) that was offered in the visitors' guide.
Our last evening we ate at Gaidos. This restaurant is always busy and it's advisable to make reservations. Again, our group had mixed views of the meal. I had seared tuna salad which was wonderful.
We all agreed our favorite meal was breakfast at Mosquito Cafe on the corner of Winnie and 14th Street. This was a recommendation by Joseph from the Historic Tours Shuttle.

On houses and businesses that have survived the hurricanes, there are diamond plaques next to the door. The rectangular plaques show the height the water rose with the name of the hurricane.